Tuesday, 17 May 2011

the cliché of surf

"In one place we came upon a large company of naked natives, of both sexes and all ages, amusing themselves with the national pastime of surf-bathing." Mark Twain, Hawaii, 1866.

When must we say: it's enought?
Maybe when we don't feel our extremities any longer
Maybe when our hearts beat as loud to feel it in our temples
When we rest in the shore, looking a new punch of waves, breaking, dancing
I miss the sensation of being broken, being happy